Kefalonia is a truly Greek island, with towering mountains, heart-stoppingly beautiful coves, beaches lapped by the turquoise Ionian Sea and postcard-pretty villages frozen in time. Lassi and Skala are two of the biggest tourist areas, but anyone who wants the quieter side of Greek life will find plenty of sleepy villages.
The largest of the Ionian Islands, sleepy Kefalonia’s pulse sped up with the arrival of film crews to make Captain Corelli’s Mandolin in 2000, but the notoriety has in no way spoilt the charm of the island.
Kefalonia was dominated by many different civilisations, from Byzantine to Venetian, but little evidence of any former life is visible in the capital, Argostoli, which was bombed during World War II and crushed by a major earthquake in 1953. The prettiest town on the island is Fiskardo, which kept its Venetian architecture when it escaped the earthquake.
Getting there/getting around Kefalonia
You will arrive at Kefalonia International Airport, five miles from Argostoli. Kefalonia is quite large and while there is a half-decent local public bus network spanning out from Argostoli, car hire is the best bet. In the capital, get taxis from Plateia Valianou, the central square.